Justin Keay shares the highlights of the Slovak capital
09.30: After a leisurely breakfast at your hotel – ideally either the Radisson SAS Carlton or the Danube, both located on the edge of the cobbled old town (Staré Mesto) – take a stroll past the Slovak National Theatre towards the main square, Hlavné námestie. It is a hub of activity in the spring and summer months and the restored baroque buildings that line the west side are among the finest in the old town, otherwise an eccentric mosaic of different architectural styles. Visit the Town Hall, located on the east side. It is now a museum with an interesting and changing exhibition of Slovak historical exhibits, and the old prison and torture chamber in the basement are also open to the public. The real reason for a visit, however, is to see the wooden ceilings, a remarkable mix of gothic and baroque styles, and the impressive view of Staré Mesto and greater Bratislava from the tower.
11.00: Walk next door to the Primatial Palace, one of the most beautiful neoclassical buildings in Bratislava, completed for the Hungarian bishop of Esztergom in 1781. The Versailles-style Hall of Mirrors saw the signing of the Treaty of Pressburg (Bratislava’s former name) between Napoleonic France and Habsburg Austria in 1805, after Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Austerlitz. The fine collection of English tapestries dating from the 17th century were lost for over 100 years and only rediscovered – by accident – during restoration work early in the last century.
12.00: Walk back though Hlavné námestie and the old town towards Michael’s Tower, the last remaining in this former walled city. To your right, with a red lobster sign above the entrance, is the Bratislava City Museum’s Exhibition of Pharmacy, a quirky collection of medical equipment in reputedly one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. Outside turn left and head to the St Martin’s Cathedral, which is the largest gothic structure in the city but curiously plain inside. Afterwards, return to Michael’s Tower and cross the main road out of the old town to pedestrianised Obchodna Street, one of Bratislava’s main shopping streets and a great place for a quick lunch; if it is a cold day, try some hearty Slovak dumplings. Obchodna turns into Radlinskeho Street; walk a little further to see the National Bank – an impressive glass tower just three years old.
14.00: Retrace your steps and cut down Mariánska to Spitalska, one of Bratislava’s main streets. The commercial area around here is due for a major refurbishment, but until then the vast Tesco department store next to the Hotel Kyjev is a good place to pick up Slovak delicacies such as Figaro chocolates (the city’s main shopping centres are all slightly out of town). Diagonally across the street is the old covered market selling fresh produce. The shop on the upper level offers Slovak cheeses including Bryndza (a pungent example made from ewe’s milk) and the richly smoky Oscypek. It is from the High Tatra region of eastern Slovakia, and is best served grilled. The two wine bars here are also worth popping into, although they sell mostly cheaper Slovak wines: red lovers should try Frankovka, and those who prefer white should try Rulandské Sede, the local version of pinot gris.
16.00: Head back into the old town, passing Vinoteka Urbana on Klobucnicka, near the Primatial Palace, a wine shop and bar with the widest selection of Slovak wines in the city. Anything from Pezinok is recommended (this village is a half-hour out of town: visiting the small wineries in and around it makes for a charming afternoon’s drive) and Komárno, on the Hungarian border, is another up-and-coming region. Follow signs to Hrad (Castle) – this solid structure was actually rebuilt in the 1950s. The walk up is pleasant and the views over the Danube into Austria and, on a good day, Hungary are worth stopping for.
18.00: Walk across Novy Most (the New Bridge) towards the UFO structure atop it on the opposite side. Very 1970s in style, this bar has the best views in the city and is a perfect place to watch the sunset.
20.00: Walk back into Staré Mesto to Tempus Fugit, Sedlarska 5. This British-Czech-run restaurant has an eclectic menu focusing on Slovak cuisine with an international twist: the beefsteak is an excellent choice. Later, if you still have any stamina, cross the small cobbled street to the Irish bar for a glass of Kelt. Often hard to find, it is the best beer in Slovakia and an ice cold glass is a fitting reward for a day spent wandering the streets of Bratislava.
Radisson SAS Carlton Hotel: www.bratislava.radissonsas.com
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