Duncan Rhodes shares the insider information about this beautiful and historic city on the Baltic
10.00: Start the day with a taxi ride to the Millennium Cross on Gradowa Mountain. From the vantage point of this hill (it is a mountain only in name), you will be able to cast your eyes over the entire city; from the insect-like cranes of the shipyards rising to the left, to the low roofs of German townhouses, overshadowed by gothic churches, to the right.
11.00: From Gradowa Mountain, you can walk down to see the famous Gdansk shipyards up close. It was in and around these docks that the influential Solidarity movement began; the movement, headed by Lech Walesa, was instrumental in overthrowing communism. Check out the 42m-high Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970 at the shipyard entrance.
12.30: A 25-minute walk back towards the centre of town will take you to the foot of the two-storey Golden Gate. Admire the flamboyant Flemish and Italian style of this splendid threshold before proceeding through and on to the Royal Way. The Royal Way is undoubtedly Gdansk’s most impressive thoroughfare and you will find plenty of photo opportunities at the 16th-century Town Hall, the magnificent Artus Court and at the famous Neptune Fountain – the symbol of the city.
14.00: By now you should have worked up a decent appetite, so pass through the Green Gate (where Walesa has his office) and across the river for a bite to eat at the hip Soda Café. If you are having trouble deciding what to order, why not opt for a ‘Wild Stranger’? This delicious sole in shrimp sauce dish is a snip at 27PLN ($9.50).
15.00: In the afternoon take a kayak trip along Gdansk’s scenic waterways – gdansktours. com can organise this for you if your Polish is not so hot! As you paddle along the marina, you will see some amazing sights – such as the famous Old Crane of Gdansk. Bizarrely, two men using a kind of human hamster wheel – giant versions of the pet rodent’s favourite toy – once powered it.
16.30: Back on terra firma there are more sights to see. Head along the riverside, just a couple of streets up from the Royal Way, and you will arrive at the Mariacka Gate. Underneath its historic arch is the street of the same name. This charming cobbled lane begins with all number of boutiques selling amber jewellery (known in these parts as ‘Baltic gold’) and ends with the imposing Mariacki Church, the largest brick church in Europe.
17.30: While on Mariacka Street take a wellearned break at the atmospheric U Literatow Café. Watch fishermen exchange tall tales and play chess, while you sip tea with lemon or raspberry juice à la Polska.
18.30: Time to dash back to your hotel and get into your eveningwear.
19.30: Arrive in time for your dinner reservation at Pod Lososiem. The most renowned restaurant in town specialises in seafood, washed down with an impressive and international selection of wines.
21.00: After your digestif take a 20-minute taxi ride to Sopot, Poland’s most famous beach resort. It may be too late in the day for sunbathing, but enjoy the carefree bustle of holidaymakers, artists and musicians along the Monte Cassino promenade – keep an eye out for the ‘Krzywy Dom’ (or ‘Crooked House’). The pier at the end of the street is the perfect place for watching the sunset.
22.00: If you are still in the mood for strolling come night-time, then wander along the forested paths that run parallel to the beach. Maybe a concert will be going on at Sopot’s Forest Opera. Or if you want to try the regional vodkas and beers, head to Mandarynka or Papryka, two of the hippest drinking venues in town. If you really want to cut loose, the place to be is the Copacabana, where you can party until sunrise.
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