Ngobese, the young guide who enjoyed discussing military history with the late David Rattray, brought his own enthusiasm to the project when he began working at the lodge.
He formed a song and dance group comprising youngsters from the nearby village, the ‘Isandlwana Real Heroes’, who proved to very popular among guests, and who have gone on to perform in Johannesburg and elsewhere.
While visitors are enthusiastic about community activities that allow them to visit local homes and the school – it is the events of 1879 that remain the big draw in these parts.
At Isandlwana Lodge, Rob Gerrard, a fellow of the Royal Geographic Society and a former soldier in the British Army, is the man people come to hear. Gerrard’s telling of the tale of the defence of Rorkes’ Drift, where those 150 soldiers of the 24th held off a much larger force of Zulus, firing from behind a wall of biscuit boxes and mealie-bags until their rifle barrels glowed red-hot, is riveting stuff.
In his crisp, matter-of-fact tone, Gerrard reveals how the British troops fought their attackers for the best part of 12 hours, with 11 of the defenders winning the Victoria Cross – the highest award for bravery in the British army.
‘Visitors come here especially to hear the tales of courage,’ says Gerrard, ‘but this is not just a story about heroic defence against overwhelming odds.’
His study of the period has led him to understand more about the Zulus themselves, he adds. ‘These battles robbed the Zulu nation of 10 per cent of its male population – a devastating blow from which many believe it never recovered.’
WHERE TO STAY
Fugitives’ Drift lodge
Tel: (+27) 346 421 843
Isandlwana lodge
Tel: (+27) 342 718 301
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