Yet perhaps the most impressive colonial architecture – and certainly the most melancholic – lies south of the capital, on the beautiful coastline of Kep. A four-hour drive from Phnom Penh, Kep was once the St Tropez of French Indochina. Backed by wooded hills that run down to a sliver of pebbly beach and a scatter of tropical islands, this was once the seaside retreat of the colonial élite.
Founded in 1908, Kep rapidly saw strings of luxury villas, hotels and promenades spring up along its shores. The resort continued to prosper after Cambodia received its independence too, while it also began to welcome many ordinary Cambodians, day-tripping from the capital and nearby Sihanoukville.
Yet the Khmer Rouge not only didn’t surf, they also didn’t like the foreign aspect of this seaside paradise. Many of the villas were dynamited during their rule, while other, architecturally award-winning, residences were turned into storehouses and shooting galleries. One of the latter was the villa owned by Prince Sihanouk, now Cambodia’s king.
While the glory days may be over, Kep still has a lot to offer, with some fine hotels still catering to a growing number of in-the-know tourists. The islands, such as Koh Tonsay and Koh Poh (Rabbit Island and Coral island), also provide real getaways, at just a $20 return boat trip away. At the same time, one thread does still remain, leading back to the French era – and once again, it is the food.
Along the waterfront around Pasar K’Dam – the Crab Market – a string of seafood restaurants still serves up some of the finest – and best value – marine produce in South East Asia. Crab dominates, and you can have it with rice if you insist; but for many, though, the preferred option still remains a crisp and freshly baked baguette.
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