09.00: Macau rises late, part of the charming contrast from hyperkinetic Hong Kong, the former British colony only 60 kilometres or an hour ferry ride away. Wander the old alleys, soaking up the laid-back Canto-Portuguese pace. In parks, men practice Tai Chi, or hang cages with song birds. Breakfast at traditional Portuguese pastelarias (pastry shops); lots of Hong Kongers come specifically for Macau’s famed custard tarts.
10.00: Taxi or hike up to Fortaleza do Monte, the old hilltop fortress. Built by the Jesuit missionaries who founded Macau in the 16th century – Europe’s first outpost in the Far East – it’s an atmospheric site with rusting cannons and an ivy-covered chapel.
11.00: Macau has invested heavily to expand attractions outside of casinos – local tables now take in more than Las Vegas. The best of many museums is the hilltop Museo de Macau, which details the lively history of this formidable trading port. Exhibits range from Chinese art to a colorful collection of antique matchbooks – Macau once dominated the global trade. Best are interactive exhibits of traditional life certain to beguile children – or grown-ups. Press a button and hear the actual song of vendors, uniquely cried out as they plied their trades by pushcart through these old neighbourhoods.
13.00: Lunch is the main event in Macau; some offices close until evening for wine-laden, multi-course feasts followed by siesta. For an authentic taste, taxi to Fernandos, on remote Coloane Island (9 Hac Sa Beach). Along Macau’s best beach, surrounded by greenery, Fernandos is like a Mediterranean hideaway. There is no sign, and little in the way of décor, but food served family-style on picnic tables is exquisite. Specialties include mouth-watering pork ribs, pepper prawns and salad drenched in olive oil.
15.00: Taxi to Leal Senado Square, for centuries the centre of Macau. Dazzling colonial relics, in shades of ochre, lime and pearl, are so prevalent, you could be in Lisbon, and the entire plaza has been re-tiled in swirling patterns for its listing as Unesco World Heritage Site in 2005. Walk uphill to the façade of St Paul’s Church: first built in the early 1600s, the iconic partially crumbled wall is all that remains of the historic building. Then meander through surrounding alleys, filled with antique shops and scores of old mansions with the evocative mix of Asian and European features.
17.00: Most come to Macau for the casinos, and have ever since gambling was legalised in 1847. International casinos have raised the bar with enticing new attractions. The fountain in front of the Wynn Macau (www.wynnmacau.com) draws crowds with water and fire shows every 20 minutes, while the Venetian (www.venetianmacao.com), inside one of the world’s biggest buildings, has canals with gondolas and Chinese sailing junks. The casinos are definitely worth a look, with unique Chinese games, and high-rolling gamblers. If you are travelling with kids, they won’t want to leave the Qube, an impressive indoor play area at the Venetian.
20.00: Dinner choices have expanded greatly with the new casinos, and many world-class restaurants competing for favour. Yet Macanese cuisine has been famed for centuries, with its alluring mélange of spices from the far-flung Portuguese possessions. Tuck into the world’s first fusion fare, zesty treats like African Chicken and Macanese stew, at local landmarks like Henri’s Galley (www.henrisgalley.com.mo) and A Lorcha (289 Rua do Almirante Sergio).
23.00: Nightlife options have also brightened in recent years. Fisherman’s Wharf has dozens of pubs and theme restaurants with spectacular waterfront views. Late nights are best at the Hard Rock (www.hardrockhotelmacau.com) in the brand-new City of Dreams complex, while chilling is thrilling at the View, atop the AIA Tower at the Sands (www.sands.com.mo) with well-mixed drinks and the best views in Macau.
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