Feeling somewhat unambitious in the 39°C heat, I opt for a slightly less taxing 15 kilometres around the sea of Galilee, otherwise known as the Kinneret Scenic bicycle trail. The scenery is unlike anything I’ve ever seen, with vineyards, date farms, banana plantations and spectacular views across lake Kinneret (the local name for the famous sea) down to the Jordan valley. I can feel a Boney M lyric coming on. A word of warning, though, this is mountain-biking proper, often on unpaved tracks, so some cycling experience is recommended. After the bike trip we take a quick shower in the facilities at Yardenit, a baptism site on the river Jordan. Being a gentile, I’m only allowed to put my feet in the water. I’m sure there’s a parable in there somewhere.
For the less biblically inclined, the Galilee has an abundance of waterfalls and natural springs where you can cool off. The best place to exploit these natural water features is Yehudiya nature reserve, five kilometres east of the Sea of Galilee. Pack your trekking shoes and hike to your preferred watering hole, be it the hexagon pools, formed from the lava of a volcano over three million years ago or the 27-metre high Zavitan waterfall. Those with a greater sense of adventure and a head for heights can canyon along the Yehuda stream and descend the steep and precarious path down to the base of the vast Yehudiya waterfall.
It’s easy to become blasé about the omnipresent natural beauty of the Israeli landscape, but for the ultimate panorama a visit to the Dead Sea is a must. It’s not within the Galilee region, but Israel is such a small country that it can be traversed in its entirety in a matter of hours.
I set of early from my Hotel in Tiberius with my new guide, Rivka. She is a seasoned professional and runs her tour bus with military precision. She is also a huge fan of the imperative. As we descend the vehicle at the fortress of Masada, built in 30BC by the Judean King Herod as the last stronghold of Jewish resistance against the invading Romans, Rivka recites a litany of historical facts. Each is delivered succinctly, followed by a flourish of the hand and a staccato cry of ‘We walk!’ as she pushes on through the searing desert heat.
By bus, we follow the route of the River Jordan for a further 20 minutes until the local Judean desert unfolds into the vast plains of the Negev and the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth at 422 metres below sea level. With its palm trees, oases, sandy mountain ranges and Bedouin settlements, the landscape has an immutable quality. In reality, though, the salty plains of the Dead Sea are continuously receding. Contrary to popular belief, this is probably not related to climate change, but a direct result of the Israeli, Syrian and Jordanian governments diverting the water from its main tributary, the river Jordan, for use in irrigation schemes.
What a great and descriptive story. Love the whole website.