London: Savile Row Still Suits

Walk north along London’s Savile Row and you will notice a strange phenomenon. On your left you will see easily recognisable brand names such as Ben Sherman and Abercrombie and Fitch above attractive, but perhaps predictable, shop fronts. On the right, however, you will spot something rather more unusual, the bespoke suit makers for which ‘the Row’ is famous worldwide.

And in this split between two sides of a central London street lies the essence of an issue which could ultimately determine the fate of one of the most famous addresses in Europe.

Type the words ‘Savile Row’ into a search engine and you’ll uncover any number purveyors of suits – most of which are far removed from the real essence of bespoke tailoring, for which this street has been renowned for more than 150 years.

For the real thing, however, you need to make your way to a shop such as no15, Savile Row – home to Henry Poole & Co. This firm has been making suits for gentlemen since the days of Queen Victoria and, as if to prove the point, the potential customer’s first impressions are of a handmade admiral’s uniform and framed letters of thanks from 19th-century bigwigs such as the emperor Napoleon III, the khedive of Egypt, King Boris of Bulgaria and Friedrich, Grosherzog of Baden (whose family is still a customer).

Current director Simon Cundy is a descendent of one of the company’s original founders, and is justly proud both of the firm’s history and its ability to stay ahead of the game in a changing world. Poole’s customers have a choice of around 6,000 different fabrics, colours and weights of cloth, they will go through as many as seven fittings and they will pay at least $5,000 for the finished product.

For that money, they will get something unique – as Cundy puts it: ‘This is your chance really to have what you want in terms of cloth and cut.’

Your suit will also be made on the premises. Henry Poole & Co employs more than 40 people; most of them plying their trade in the basement of the Savile Row shop. And the firm’s tailors are not necessarily what you might expect: while some have the air of the reassuringly experienced there is also a fair smattering of youth – and fashionable haircuts and the occasional artistic tattoo complement more predictable styles of dress and appearance.

Cundy indicates the opposite side of the Row: ‘Generally on that side of the street you’ll find cheaper suits – which might be measured up here, but will actually be made overseas. On this side you’ll find the true bespoke.’

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